Food is half the reason to travel here. Thai cooking changes as you move around the country, so what you eat in Chiang Mai is not what you eat in Phuket. Here is a short map of the regions and the dishes worth seeking out.
The north is milder and herb forward. Look for khao soi, a curry noodle soup topped with crispy noodles, sai ua, a lemongrass and herb sausage, and nam prik noom, a roasted green chili dip eaten with vegetables and sticky rice.
The center gives you many of the dishes people already know: pad thai, tom yum soup, green and red curries, boat noodles, and mango with sticky rice. Bangkok's river neighborhoods and markets are a food trip on their own.
The south is richer and often spicier, with a lot of fresh seafood. Try massaman curry, southern yellow curry, grilled fish, and the roti and Muslim-Thai dishes you find around Phuket Old Town.
From the northeast come som tam, a pounded green papaya salad, larb, a herby minced meat salad, and grilled chicken with sticky rice. They are sold across the country and make a cheap, high-protein meal after training.
Night markets and street stalls are the cheapest and easiest way to eat, with many dishes in the 40 to 80 baht range. Point at what looks good, say mai phet for not spicy or nit noi for a little heat, and look for jay signs if you eat vegetarian. Busy stalls with quick turnover are usually a safe bet.
Eating for two-a-day training is a little different from eating to explore. For that side, see the food and recovery guide.
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